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Quick thoughts. The Dome of the Rock is impressively decorated inside and out (even ignoring the golden dome). It's also dignified and interesting. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was a circus. It was so crowded and the guards were so pushy and just rude that I walked out wanting to kill something - not how you should feel after visiting a major religions most holy spot. The view from the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer is every bit worth the painful, clausterphobic climb.
Got out of the old town and found an Internet cafe (of course).