Early start (really!) Drove round the lake, up through Ho to Hoeho and on to the village of Wli. Gorgeous scenery (reminiscent of the Funta in Guinea) with green mountains dense tropical rainforest, banana and coconut trees, and the odd twenty foot high cactus(?!). Didn't realize how flat the land has been through most of West Africa until it wasn't anymore. In Wli we stopped at the Game and Wildlife office to pay the hiking fee . We were required to hire a guide but we argued claiming that friends had already been and we knew our way - we finally succeeded, but we had to threaten not to go at all if we were forced to hire one.
The walk to the falls took about 45 minutes and was through dense rain forest in the bottom of a valley and crossed the stream a dozen times (sometimes fording, sometimes a fortuitous log bridge). Along the valley walls there were thousands (tens of thousands?) of bats roosting. The walk was through a cloud of butterflies - seemingly no two of the same kind. Wli Falls were magnificent. Maybe three hundred feet free fall cascade of water into a small pool - in the sun, a giant moving sculpture of diamonds. We swam in the cold water. The wind and noise as you approached the cascade's impact zone were incredible (swimming was very difficult against the wind). The needle like sting of the water quickly turned our skin lobster red, but was also very refreshing. Despite our cajoling and caustic remarks and two attempts, Joy never made it. After the swimming and frolicking we laid the wet stuff out on the rocks in the sun - predictably causing it to quickly cloud over and rain. We took shelter under trees and played some cards (surprise) waiting for it to stop. Shortly after beginning the hike back it started to rain again, but the dense foliage kept us mostly dry. After we got back to the car I realized that it's pretty much peak tourist season, this is the prime tourist attraction for the region, and we were there for three hours without seeing an other soul. I've heard people complain about increasing tourism - but it's obviously still at very reasonable levels.
Border formalities crossing into Togo were the typical pain - nothing remarkable. While we were halfway through the Ghana exit procedure it started to pour rain. For most of the remaining two hour drive to Kpalimé the rain got harder and harder, and the lightning more and more frequent. We decided to check into a room at the campement instead of camping. It was dark by the time we got here, but glimpses in the lightning guarantee that the views tomorrow re going to be spectacular!