. OnHiatus.com > Journal 1 > Day Index > Journal Entry: November 18, 1999

Thursday, November 18, 1999
Ifaty to Ranohira, Madagascar
Madagascar's Flag

Ranohira, Madagascar:
Latitude: 22° 33' 24" South
Longitude: 45° 24' 36" East
Altitude: 2569 feet
From Seattle: 12502 miles
Lodging: Hotel - Hotel Berney

Today's Travel:
Country: Madagascar
Region: Southern
Route: Land Rover: Ifaty - Toliara; Taxi-Brousse: Toliara - ?, ? - Ranohira; Taxi: Ranohira - Isalo Ranch; Hitchhike: Isalo Ranch - Ranohira
Start: Ifaty
Stop 1. Toliara
End:Ranohira, Madagascar
Linear:145 miles
Weather: Sunny / Rain

Available Photos:

Ridge in evening light Isalo National Park, Ranohira, Madagascar

All photo images © 1997-2000 Anthony Jones - Images may not be used without prior written approval.

Click on map to Zoom in...
Trip Stats to Date:
Day: 952
Linear Dist: 188976
Countries Visited: 63
Regions Visited: 246
More stats...
Hotels: 304
Friends / Family: 231
Camping: 120
Hostels: 220
Transit: 63
Other Lodging: 13
Beers: 3382

Journal Entry:
Got up early for the ride into town - despite having to stop when the car overheated still made better time. Shortly after nine I was waiting at the Taxi-Brousse station - and at ten and eleven. Took the time to try and figure out the local phone system - a rather bizarre combination of radio and payphone. Finally got through to Air Madagascar but they still can't confirm me - they tell me I have to come by tomorrow afternoon - when I explain I won't be here they say to go to the airport - it shouldn't be a problem.

The advantage to being one of the first people there was that I got the passengers seat - by far the most comfortable, not to mention the best view. The desert landscape was unreal - some of the most bizarre trees, they might have been a species of baobab, they kind of looked like telephone poles with huge trees growing out of the top. I got nearly to my destination in about four hours - then had to wait over an hour for another Taxi-Brousse to fill up (of course I found out later that I could have done this last section immediately in a taxi - for half the cost).

In Ranohira (the nearest town to Isalo National park) I looked for a taxi to take me to the Isalo Lodge - a place that Richard (my Dive Master in Ifaty) had recommended me. Eventually a guy in a Land Rover found me and I hired him to take me about half way back to where I'd waited for the last Taxi-Brousse. He dropped me off, and ... I found out they were full. Hitched a ride back to Ranohira with some French tourists. There I got a local hotel. My room is on the second floor - though I'm not sure it will stay there all night - I can see through the floor into the room below me! It's rickety, but actually seems very clean so I'm not complaining - to much. Though no electricity and no running water... and I just chased out a huge black and yellow cockroach thing.

After getting my room I still had an hour before sunset. I was hoping to do a night walk with a guide (recommended by two separate people). Everyone told me it wasn't possible - I'm not sure if they mean it can't be done, or it couldn't be done because of the rain. As much as I like Madagascar my wildlife viewing attempts are not going all that well. Spent the evening sitting in the cafe on the street reading. Had a great zebu stew for dinner.

Related Sites:
US State Department Consular Information Sheets: Madagascar
CIA World Fact Book: Madagascar

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