Last night we realized that maybe our hotel wasn't such a bargain. In addition to the rather meager amenities it was loud - all night long. So we packed and moved. The new hotel is only a block away and is much nicer, and even at twice the cost it's still cheap. Amy was feeling a little weird again last night, so this morning we decided to go back to Dar and do Zanzibar before Malawi. That way we're more accessible if there are any complications. We'll go to Malawi at the end of the trip instead. Had brunch at "Hastey Tasty Too" - the most popular restaurant in town while working out our plans.
The weather is fantastic. Up here in the mountains the air is delightfully cool and very refreshing after the heat in Dar. The town is small and there are very few tourist. It's a little challenging since, unlike everywhere else I've been in Tanzania, very few people speak English. But it's fun - lots of bumbling attempts at Swahili and even more hand gesturing. Spent a couple hours exploring the markets. It was great, not a single other tourist and people were very friendly and happy to see us. I bought some spice, a cow bell, and a pumice stone. Amy bought a couple baskets and some sandals. In the middle of our explorations we went into a local bar in search of a cold soda and a toilet. There were a half dozen people in the bar and they were very amused to see us - lots of laughing, in a friendly way. After the market stopped at the bus station and bought tickets for the six o'clock bus tomorrow morning (ugh). Back at the hotel had a very cold bucket bath and laid down for a rest.
Went for a late afternoon hike up to Gangilonga Rock ("Talking Stone" in Hehe, the local language) the directions in the guide book were useless, but with the help of some locals we made it in time to walk around it, climb to the top and relax before watching the sunset. The hills around Iringa are bare and rocky - very appealing in a minimalist way - they look as if they belong in the Scottish highlands, not tropical Africa. After the sunset (again beautiful) we hurried down the trail and got back in to town just as it was really getting dark. Had dinner, then went back to the hotel and packed as it's going to be a very early morning...