. OnHiatus.com > Journal 1 > Day Index > Journal Entry: August 19, 2000

Saturday, August 19, 2000
Likoma Island to Nkhata Bay, Malawi
Malawi's Flag

Nkhata Bay, Malawi:
Latitude: 11° 36' 45" South
Longitude: 34° 18' 14" East
Altitude: 1900 feet
From Seattle: 11219 miles
Lodging: Camp - Mayoka Village

Today's Travel:
Country: Malawi
Region: Northern Malawi
Route: The Ilala (Ferry): Likoma - Chizumulu - Nkhata Bay
Path:Likoma Island - Nkhata Bay, Malawi
Linear:46 miles
Weather: Sunny

Available Photos:

Amy and our hut Mango Drift, Likoma Island, Malawi

Amy and our hut Mango Drift, Likoma Island, Malawi

All photo images © 1997-2000 Anthony Jones - Images may not be used without prior written approval.

Click on map to Zoom in...
Trip Stats to Date:
Day: 1227
Linear Dist: 235886
Countries Visited: 70
Regions Visited: 268
More stats...
Hotels: 444
Friends / Family: 302
Camping: 130
Hostels: 261
Transit: 76
Other Lodging: 13
Beers: 4202

Journal Entry:
Went for a long walk to the next resort over. It's actually a short walk on the road, but we walked along the coast. Actually more of a scramble than a walk as most of the coast was very rocky. It was a beautiful hike and we even saw some animal life - mostly birds - but also a surprise. Since we've been swimming in Lake Malawi Amy has been asking questions about whether I think it's safe from crocodiles and hippos - and I've been teasing her. Well today on our hike, just around the corner from where we've been swimming, we startled a sunning croc! Actually we were just as startled despite it's diminutive size - it was only about two feet long. But the important bit was that there are definitely crocodiles around and we were definitely a lot more aware of where we stepped from there on!

The resort was beautiful. It consisted of a group of rock chalets nestled on a rocky hill between two sandy beaches. The main lodge was at the peak and would have fit in anywhere in the pacific northwest. We had a nice lunch and talked to one of the managers. They charge $25 per person a night - a lot more than the $3 we're paying, but a lot less than you'd expect looking at the place (though we were told they're hoping to move that up to $100). After lunch we sat around and admired the view (and the very cold drinks) and played cards.

We walked back on the road - no crocs! Back at Mango Drift we packed our bag and then spent the rest of the afternoon sitting on the beach. In the evening we caught a ride in Kaya Mawa's motor launch to the ferry. It was a very rough ride and we probably could have walked as fast but it had the advantage of dropping us off on the ferry so we didn't have to deal with the trauma of fighting for a ride out. We sat on the ferry from six until nine - drinking what must be the cheapest and coldest beers in Malawi. When the ferry did leave the ride was surprisingly smooth.

The crossing to Chizumulu only took an hour but then we had to sit at anchor for three hours while cargo and passengers were unloaded and loaded. While we were anchored we fell asleep but once we started moving the wind was too cold. Finally got to Nkhata Bay around three. I was pretty much a wreck by then - luckily Mayoka had sent the boat to pick us up so we didn't even have to walk. But when we got to Mayoka there were only two rooms available but people enough for four - luckily we were given one since we were the only ones who made reservations. Unluckily the room we were given turned out to be occupied already. So we were offered a tent. I was pissed - all I wanted was to get in bed and be able to sleep in and instead I had to set up a tent with the knowledge that I was going to be woken up at the dawn - I was definitely not a happy camper.

Related Sites:
US State Department Consular Information Sheets: Malawi
CIA World Fact Book: Malawi

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